Floating Ceramic Tile Flooring
Kwik-Tile Ceramic Flooring is a traditional ceramic flooring product, but offers a much easier installation. This ceramic flooring is waterproof, so it can be installed in pool houses, laundry rooms, or any other potentially wet areas. Kwik-Tile Ceramic can be installed over almost every other flooring product on the market, so you don't have to waste time demolishing your old floor. Kwik-Tile's revolutionary new installation system allows you to replace any broken tile without having to replace the rest of your floor.
Kwik – Tile Flooring Installation
Questions? Kwik – Tile Flooring Installation FAQ
More Questions? Kwik - Tile Floor FAQ
Feel free to call 1-800-626-6936 with any questions you may have.
Size - 13" x 13"
Kwik-Tile Floor Preparation
- Make sure subfloor is clean and level to 1/4 inch in a 10ft run. If the substructure is out of the tolerance for level, repair with leveling compound suitable for ceramic tile installations.
- If installing over a Wood subfloor, check to see that the floor meets the standard requirements 3/4” tongue and grove plywood, with a minimal deflection of 16/360 of a inch with a 16” on center joist placement.
- If installing over concrete, make sure the concrete is solid and level. If there are cracks or divots in excess of 1/8 inch, the must be repaired with a Portland based patching compound. If excess moisture is being emitted from the concrete (4lbs per square inch per 24 hours), seek remedies with a licensed flooring contractor.
- If installing over existing vinyl flooring, make sure the floor is well bonded to the subfloor, and free of dirt and debris. We recommend that the floor be stripped to prevent slippage during the installation process.
- If installing over wood flooring, make sure the floor is well secured and the floor is level to 1/4 inch in ten foot run with no major depressions.
- DO NOT INSTALL KWIK-TILE OVER ANY OTHER FLOATING FLOOR SYSTEM.
- If installing over a synthetic, poly or rubber sound control membrane, make sure it has a minimum compression resistance of 50 percent at 85 pounds.
- Make sure to check height clearances on cabinets and doors. Doors may need to be trimmed to allow clearance of the floor.
- Open all boxes of Kwik - Tile to verify shading is acceptable.
- Find the visual center of the room. With a chalk line, snap a line from the furthest points in the room to the center from the walls. This will act as a check for setting the tile.
- Lay out the floor with out cutting the tile. This is to make sure all end cuts are a minimum of 3” from the edge of the walls. If this is not the case, Adjust the Visual Center point accordingly.
- Assemble 4 tiles together, and make sure they are over the center point cross at the visual center of the room.
- Install the tiles from the center of the room out, making sure that all the tiles click fully together as you move. After adding each row of tiles, make sure the floor remains square with the caulk lines.
- When you arrive at the exterior walls, measure the tiles to be cut to within no more then a 1/8 inch gap Between the cut side of the tile, and the wall or end point.
- Cut the tile on a wet saw only, making sure not to chip or crack the tile during cutting.
- Moisten the top of the tile with a damp well wrung out sponge prior to application of the grout.
- Carefully cut the cut the tip of the nozzle at a slight angle to dispense enough material for a 1/8” grout joint.
- Apply acrylic sanded grout into the grout joint until the grout joint is full (to allow for shrinkage) per grout manufacturers instructions.
- Tool joint with grout float and then wipe with damp sponge (use cool, clean water to dampen sponge). Use caution not to exert too much pressure on the sponge pulling grout from the joint.
- Remove excess material from the face of the tile. Remove with a clean damp sponge.
- Make sure to grout around the exterior of the installation, keeping the grout off the walls or wood work around the finished floor.
- If haze appears, use damp sponge then polish with dry cheese cloth.
- Let cure for 48 to 72 hours depending on humidity and temperature.
- After the grout is dried, install any transitions and wall trims required.
|Questions Concerning Kwik-Tile Installation
Why are you not recommending any type of underlayment? Do you have any concerns about noise (i.e. hollow sound like laminate Flooring) or potential mold/mildew from moisture penetrating under the plastic in between the joints?
There is a different sound from traditional tile flooring, but if the sound is acceptable to most end user, no underlayment is required. The product has been tested over various poly- underlayments, synthetic underlayments and rubber underlayments. In these tests Kwik-Tile preformed identical to the same assembly without the underlayment. The only requirements are that it be no thicker then 1/8”, and have a compression resistance of 7.5 lbs at 25% compression. As for mold with moisture present, the tray and glue are synthetic, and will not support the growth of mold. Mold can be present in moisture that is stagnant and trapped under the tile with no way to release. That is why we recommend dealing with excess moisture in concrete floors prior to installation.
It seems the Kwik-Tile will tend to flex a good bit from piece to piece when an entire floor is in place. Is this accurate or not? If so, is there a way to minimize this?
When the entire floor is installed and grouted, there is not much movement. The acrylic grout system will firm up the final assembly, but yet still allow enough movement to float without telegraphing issues that may occur beneath the floor such as cracking. The grout allows enough internal movement to accept this movement as well.
What is the compressive strength on the “footing” of the black plastic?
We have had over 900 lbs during a Robinson Test, flexing the entire assembly by as much as .057 inches with no effect.
We're trying to determine the impact on the system as traffic moves across the floor. Have you tested any traditional ceramic grouts on the Kwik-Tile floor?
Yes we have. Traditional grouts are too ridged, and cannot accept any movement that may occur. The grout has a tendency to crack and powder with the movement. In our testing we have found that acrylic grouts such as Mapei Premix perform the best with the system, as well as provide traditional feel, look and performance of traditional grouts. Epoxy grouts will also work, but the Do-It-Yourselfer may find them difficult to work with. Check with your sales person to determine what product is best for you.
When installing the grout, do you attempt to fill all the way through the plastic grid or do you only go to the bottom of the tile? Have you tried different methods? Do you get different results?
You want to pack the grout as you would with a traditional tile installation. This takes a little of the flex out of the floor, and provides an excellent seal from water even with movement.
I have concerns about the thickness of Kwik-Tile? Are there any problems using the Kwik-Tile system over existing floors because of height issues?
We have not experienced any issues regarding the height of the system. I does not vary from the thickness of the traditional ceramic installation Installed over a backer board. We have also found that the system works with most standard transitions available on the market today. However, just as in traditional installations, you should check on clearance heights from cabinets, doors and appliances. You may have to trim a door to provide proper clearance.
How difficult is it to repair a broken tile in an installed Kwik- Tile floor?
If a tile would need to be repaired, you must remove the grout using a sharp utility knife in a pattern to the broken tile, disconnect the tiles leading to the broken tile, replace it, and regrout the ungrouted areas. The nature of the grout allows the grout to be removed much easier then traditional and epoxy grouts. When replacing a damaged tile, make sure your replacement tile and grout are a satisfactory match to the existing floorand colors
What Should I do to finish Kwik-Tile at the walls or for a transition at another floor?
The Kwik-Tile plastic tray can be easily trimmed with a sharp utility knife. As for transitions, your sales person can easily assist you in finding the best way to finish the floor with a wide range of metal, wood or cultured marble items that are readily available.
|Questions Concerning Kwik-Tile Flooring
I have an existing vinyl floor in my kitchen and want to replace it with ceramic, do I need to take up the existing floor?
No you don’t. If the vinyl floor is solid and well adhered to the subfloor, and complies with the installation conditions for floor preparation and subfloor thickness in the installation instructions, you can install Kwik-Tile right over the vinyl floor.
I was thinking about Installing Kwik-Tile in a bathroom, will there be a problem with any water that might getting into the floor?
There is no problem with water and Kwik-Tile. When Installing Kwik-Tile in a potential water environment, you want to make sure the perimeter of the installation is sealed with acceptable calk. While Kwik-Tile will not be damaged by moisture, water can work around the edges of any room, and cause premature delamination of subfloors. Just as with installing a traditional ceramic floor, you need to make sure the flange and toilet seal are level and even to support the toilet, and give a good seal for the waste / drain.
Friends have Installed ceramic themselves and said it was very difficult. Is this a project I can Handle?
Yes you can. Kwik-Tile is designed for the Novice “Do-It-Yourselfer”. If you can work with Lego Building Blocks, and make a straight cut with a wet saw, you should have no problems.
I’ve heard that non- traditional ceramic floors are hard to maintain?
Kwik-Tile is a traditional ceramic floor. The only difference is in the installation. You maintain the floor and grout the same as if it were a traditional ceramic installation.
I am concerned with the sound of the floor, what can I do to help those matters?
If sound is a concern, consult your sales person for possible solutions. There are many “Sound Control” underlayments that can be used to improve the in room and room to room sound.
Kwik-Tile seems to be very thick, will this create a problem?
Kwik-Tile is no thicker then a traditional installation on backer board. When installing ceramic in a existing home, clearances are a concern. You may need to trim a doors to accept the new floor.
What if a tile breaks in the floor. How difficult is it to repair a broken tile in an installed Kwik-Tile floor?
If a tile would need to be repaired, you must remove the grout using a sharp utility knife in a pattern to the broken tile, disconnect the tiles leading to the broken tile, replace it, and re-grout the un-grouted areas. The nature of the grout allows the grout to be removed much easier then traditional and epoxy grouts. When replacing a damaged tile, make sure your replacement tile and grout are a satisfactory match to the existing floor.
I want to install Kwik-Tile over a concrete subfloor, do I need to do anything for potential concrete cracking?
No. While installing traditional ceramic over concrete there is a potential for cracks migrating through the tile. By its floating nature, Kwik-Tile acts as its own crack suppression.
Can I install Kwik-Tile on my patio?
Kwik-Tile is not rated for outside use. Please consult with your sales person for other alternatives.
What Should I do to finish the Kwik-Tile at the walls or for a transition at another floor?
The Kwik-Tile plastic tray can be easily trimmed with a sharp utility knife. As for transitions, your sales person can easily assist you in finding the best way to finish the floor with a wide range of metal, wood or cultured marble items that are readily available
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